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2025 A New Year

Growing sea buckthorn here at Devereux farm started in 2009. The concept was a trial to test whether commercial sea buckthorn varieties would grow in the UK.

The trial began with a few German and Finnish varieties; matured into sourcing several thousand plants of ten varieties from Siberia and finally establishing four varieties from Latvia.

The results have seen all the plants grow with vigour, but commercially not all have proved their worth. The saddest issue is that the Siberian varieties, which come with a lot of promise of larger berries; sweeter taste, high yield and easy of harvesting have not adjusted well to our climate. Progressively over the years their pollination period has moved earlier and earlier into the year. As wind pollinated plants it is crucial pollination happens when the weather can gently push the pollen around the orchard so the female plants can be take up enough available pollen to start to develop fruit. The first plants were established in 2012 and by 2017 they were mature. The site covered 3 hectares with 3500 plants of 10 varieties. The design of the site was again a trial. One section had mixed plant spacing of 12 plants each for four plant space trial widths – 0.8m/1m/1.5m and 2m. The tight spacing followed research in Siberia indicating it was possible to gain a very high yield from such a concept. There were 19 rows of 50 plants in this section. The rows widths were 3.0m / 3.5m and 4.0m widths.

In 2017 when the plants matured the whole orchard was covered in berries, which ripened at the end of June.

Unfortunately at that time we did not have the harvesting equipment to be able to benefit from harvesting all the berries. But the issue was that the trial had worked and the Siberian varieties would produce fruit.  What had not been anticipated was that moving plants from the extreme climate of Siberia to the maritime climate of the English coast, resulted in the plants believing they were in a perpetual summer. In consequence the plants went dormant in October. The first buds started to break around New Year’s Day – January 1st. Pollination moved back progressively year by year to where it is now, being the beginning of March. This is when the weather is both wet and windy. A small amount of fruit sets, but this is enough to fee the local birds. The trial with Siberian varieties has to therefore conclude that unless Siberian varieties are grown in a controlled environment space, pollination will not be successful enough in the UK to provide a commercial crop. This may be seen almost within the context not of climate change, but what happens when imported plants have to adjust to a radically different climate.

As all varieties are imported the impact of climate becomes of interest.

The difference between the Siberian varieties and all the others is the different in ripening dates. The Siberian plants ripened early – in June. All the other varieties – german, Finnish and Latvian ripened for harvesting later in the year and have therefore been successful.

The Latvian varieties ( Sunny; Goldrain; Mary and Tatjana) are ready for harvesting in the third/fourth week of July. The German varieties are ready at the end of August, through to second week of September. All have proved successful.

Of the original six german varieties ( Hergo; Frugana; Dorana; Askola; Leikora and Habego ) the last two are the one’s I would favour most. The first three varieties do not tolerate the branch cutting process of harvesting – even to the extent it can kill the plant. Askola, the yield of berries is large but the berries are very small. This leaves leikora and habego as the favourites. Habego is also known as orange energy. The flavour of both are very good.

As the original german plants from 2009 are now large, I now tend to harvest plants every other year. The branches selected for cutting are taken on the basis as if one was pruning the plant to let in extra light into the crown or thinning the plant generally. The yield of Habego and leikora is spectacular this way. The berries are of average size.

Of the Latvian varieties – Sunny and Goldrain are my favourites. Sunny is a yellow variety with large berries. The latvian varieties ripen in Late July and are reliable and juicy. I expect around 3 to 4 kg per plant bearing in mind i harvest approx a third of the available crop each year to allow for a branch regrowth cycle to continue.

At harvest time the branches go into my cold store in an hour of harvesting. They are put through a simple seperation machine which removes the branches, seperating the leaf/berry and some small wood trash for further processing. The next stage is a conveyor based machine which removes the bulk of the leaf, some damaged berry and woody parts. The next stage is manual  but fast, putting the berry/leaf/woody mix across a stainless steel 11mm mesh. This removes all the small woody trash/ leaf and small berry. The final stage then is very manual, but it works. The remaining berries are put into a box and I pick through them by eye to remove discoloured and damaged berries. Often in the freezing process berries are frozen together which results in them being dented and not a perfect berry shape. All these are removed, to end up with a final clean berry sample for customers. The process is manual but the machinery I use was bespoke designed and made and the scale and cost appropriate for this trial size of enterprise.

So to the conclusion – unfortunately time never stops and we all get older. The orchard keeps growing and customers keep coming back. My concern at the moment is the energy costs of running a cold store need to be met with investment in solar energy panels to reduce the environmental loading of the processing system. I hope that over the next two or three years I might find someone else to grow on the business.

To all my customers – thank you so much. I hope that the berries I send to you remain as frozen as possible in transit. It is not always easy especially when the ambient temperature gets higher in summer. Thank you again – and a happy New Year.

David

 

 

 

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2024 – Another year – another crop

The first concept of growing sea buckthorn at Devereux farm was in 2006. As a coastal farm with experience of tidal flooding in the past there was talk of the risks posed by climate change driven sea level rise. We wanted to find a new crop that would need less land with value added product potential.  18 years later, the threat of sea level rise is not an issue, but the rate of coastal erosion on the shore of our farm at Walton has doubled in the last decade, from 1.5m/year to 3.5m/yr. This is a gradual but irreversible process of losing land to the sea. It is a result of increased extreme weather events and storms in winter. It means that the term living with the sea is becoming ever more real.

Every farm around the country has become more conscious of the importance of soil quality and how much it can improve crop yields, while also delivering wider biodiversity. Agrochemicals have delivered improved crop yields since the 1940s, but it has been at the expense of soil health and damage to the vast diversity of life that contributes to delivering the minerals so important to growing healthy crops. Farming works in long cycles and this year we decided that the time had come for radical change that would help lower the impact of flood risk to the farm as well as starting to allow our soils to recover.

In the farm office there has been a book that was bought years ago, but now has great resonance for our future. Originally published in 1898, this copy came from the 1940s and was probably belonged to my grandfather. Written by Robert Elliot, it is called the Clifton Park System of farming and explains how using multiple grass varieties alongside deep rooting herbs it is possible to make the soil work hard to produce crops with minimal artificial inputs. The concept is simple, but it makes complete sense and so it has become the concept which drove the idea to stop arable crop farming at Walton and put all the fields down to grass as herbal leys and allow the soils to recover. In looking for improving soil health, it also made perfect sense to remove the use of any agrochemicals. Establishing any crop, whether arable or grass always looks to the control of weeds. In accepting that agrochemicals will impact on rebuilding the life in the soils, it was also clear that going organic would provide the discipline that would remove those chemicals from the system. So our farm at Walton has gone organic.

What has this to do with sea buckthorn? The issue is that the new organic farm project is taking up a lot of time and the sea buckthorn project is not a large enterprise that can justify employing help. It has proved to be a difficult crop to grow, its future is in the balance – but as this year we have a crop – we are carrying on. Giving up would be a difficult decision having invested years in trying.

Growing sea buckthorn has been a roller coaster of a project. At first the concept of growing Siberian sea buckthorn varieties seemed the best way forward. The Russian varieties had large yields; big berries; good taste and the plants have few thorns. We have several thousand plants in the ground. The problem has been that in moving them from the extreme climate of Siberia to the mild climate on the Essex coast they have adapted to our climate. This has been gradual but has resulted in crop failure. In 2017 the whole field was covered in berries. Since then, every year they have adapted to our climate by adjusting the period of their pollination. It has moved back earlier and earlier in the year. This has now reached the first week of March when the weather is poor, and the impact on a wind pollinated crop is critical. Poor pollination means a poor crop. So the Siberian plants have now been abandoned.

In 2015 we planted Latvian varieties. These use the same male pollinators we used for the Siberian plants, but the crop matures a month later than the Siberian varieties. The four varieties Goldrain, Sunny, Tatjana and Mary all produced well. With large berries, great taste and good yields these took over from the Siberian plants. In 2023 the crop failed. All it could be put down to was a lack of sunshine to ripen the berries. This year, the progressive rain looked as if there would be a repeat of last year’s issue – but no – we have a crop and it is good. This has been limited to the Goldrain and Sunny. Mary and Tatjana have not cropped well for three years. The plants need a serious prune to let light back into the rows. This will impact on next year’s crop but it should mean a good result for 2026.

So we have some new crop berries for 2024, ready for sale now.

Last year the prices came down reflecting the quality of what was on offer. Electricity costs and other costs rose dramatically, so this year they are coming back up to where they were two years ago.

The courier packaging we switched to in 2023 was a cardboard based system allowing a move away from polystyrene. The cardboard system works when the ambient temperature is low. Small berries tend to thaw fast. The cardboard system has struggled to stop the berries from thawing particularly with smaller orders. Pre-covid couriers offered a guaranteed delivery time, which allowed for fast delivery.  This is now no longer an option when sending perishable goods. So we have to take the risk when sending our berries.

I am going to go back to polystyrene boxes for the summer as it is a more reliable system, and will use a more sustainable packaging option as soon as the right.

Thank you for your interest in our sea buckthorn.

David

 

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Happy Christmas

To all our customers over 2023 – thank you so much for your loyalty to the little orange berry.

I am sorry but I am closing from taking any further orders until January. Our cold store is in need of TLC over the holiday and I will be taking orders again as from Monday January 1st next year.

With best wishes for a very happy Christmas and let us pray for a more peaceful world in 2024.

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Planting for the future

The past is for learning from; the present to act on that knowledge and the future tests the actions taken.

The 22 German, Latvian, Finnish and Siberian varieties of sea buckthorn here at Devereux farm have tested which are the ones that we believe in for the future.  2023 will see the start of planting new orchards.

Over the past ten years, experience is what drives our ideas. In 2014 we had a shocking infection in the young plants impacting on 40% of the Siberian plants. As the plants matured the problem has not re-occured. In 2017 these plants were full of berries, but gradual adaptation of these plants to our climate shifted their wind pollination into March. The weather in march being wet and windy has neutralised this process resulting in only a small crop in 2022.

Birds were not a problem for that 2017 crop. But as years have gone by and local wildlife recognised this new feedstock in the landscape they have grown to be a bigger issue year by year. When the crop is large, we can afford to share it with the birds. But when the crop is small they take every berry. In 2022, the high temperatures and extended drought also drove the birds to want to eat the berries even before they were ripe. So looking forward to the future if we are going to be successful we have to manage this problem.

With summer 2022 taking temperatures to a UK record 40 deg C. climate change is a factor that will impact on growing sea buckthorn. It is resilient and grows in extreme conditions, but we should not look at all sea buckthorn as being the same. Across the world there are different species and subspecies that have adapted to these conditions.  Here at Devereux farm our clay soils are not ideal. In winter these soils become waterlogged, particularly as with climate change heavy rain events are becoming the norm.

Summer 2022 with its long dry drought resulted in a small crop of smaller berries, which the birds decimated.  We started planting sea buckthorn in 2009. We now have enough experience for the next phase of our sea buckthorn project. The loss of the 2022 crop triggered the decision that now is the time to select the varieties that have potential and replant in orchards designed to optimise pollination; reduce bird damage; accomodate the impacts of drought. Solving these issues will deliver consistent crops for our customers.

What does all this mean to our customers?

Losing almost 90% of the 2022 crop means our freezers are almost empty with the last of our frozen berries to be sold-out this month.

The new plants that we use to replant our organic orchards will take four years to mature to fruit.

There will be a small crop coming from the plants we are retaining available from harvest each year, but the supply will be limited until the new plants develop.

In order to be able to carry on supplying berries through the year after our home grown have run out it seemed to make sense to source berries from our sea buckthorn plant suppliers. These would be organic and of the same varieties as we have been growing and will be growing in the future.  So the sad issue that last summer’s crop was a disaster, will not mean that we cannot continue to supply customers with organic whole sea buckthorn berry. I hope that you will appreciate this situation. We will have new crop berries available from our own plants in mid July.

In the meantime there is a lot more happening at Devereux farm. Living next to the Hamford water National Nature Reserve the farm has long been managed to provide habitat for wildlife. In fact over the past year, bird counts have logged 198 different species. The habitat areas are managed in agreement with Natural England, with our arable crops grown within them. As we look at sea buckthorn with a eye to climate change and its impact on the future, so we also see the farm needing to change.

Although it is a busy time ahead with the sea buckthorn, the decision has also been taken to convert the whole of the rest of the farm to organic as well. This brings the whole ethos of what we do into one.

In writing this blog I am aware that I stopped blogging a while back, but with all this change it seems the right time to start and deliver a weekly update on what is going on. It is truly going to be a busy year as there has just been announced the ninth annual conference of the International Sea buckthorn Association is to be held in Thessaloniki, Greece in May. Greece is the country from which the origin name of sea buckthorn (Hippophae)  comes – confirming its 2000 year old history and the ongoing appreciation of its natural health benefits.

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A healthy environment.

2023 is here, what will this mean?

At Devereux farm, we are lucky enough to work in the countryside – a place that inspires everything we do.

On my early walk this morning I passed a special tree in our garden. It was one of the reasons why we bought our house in 1996. Back then, the tree was around 350 years old. It was a massive turkey oak – tall, broad – with low sweeping branches, it was however coming to the end of its life.

Tragedy struck at the Millenium on January 1st 2000, when this grand old tree fell, crashing to the ground. It presented a sad spectacle.

Over the next three years, seven saplings grew from one of its surviving roots.

Most in shape were similar to a standard oak tree, but one had the character of the old tree with wide low branches. It provided an opportunity and hope that something would come back from the old tree.

21 years after the old tree fell, that sapling is as tall in feet as it is old,  spreading out just as the old tree did – a vision of new growth from old.

I read this morning that 2022 is being described as a “permacrisis” – a year characterised by multiple issues.

As I walked passed the tree this morning it made me reflect that for all the global issues in the world, most have solutions. For us at Devereux farm, we need to reflect that it is our environment that is in permacrisis, and recognising this will provide the solution to it.

Our solution cannot be one created in a single year. Sea buckthorn orchards take five years to bring to maturity. Converting our whole farm to organic looks to a twelve year soil management cycle. Reshaping fields with new hedges and tree copses. Improving water storage and ponds for crops and wildlife.  Our plans all focus on sustainability. New orchards producing fruit quality our customers said they want – all this takes time. There have to be short term goals. using only fully recyclable packaging; investing in renewable energy; partnering with those that bring innovation and ensure quality to our future.

Partners are crucial. The most important are our customers. Without customers we do not have a reason to exist. Customers are all individuals with personality, needs, expectations and desires.

A challenging vision – but a holistic one recognising a healthy environment is the key to a healthy future.

And then to the most important partner. Our customers are the one’s that can make this possible.

Happy new year

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Goodbye 2022 – Happy Christmas and may 2023 be full of hope.

Goodbye 2022 – Christmas is approaching and it is a time for reflection and promise of better things to come.

This year we saw temperatures in the UK soar to 40 deg. C. It came within a long summer drought. There have been droughts before, but the high temperature signposted a climate change issue for the future.

On the land, drought impacts deep into the soil. Soil is the heart of the countryside. Above ground we focus on plants and trees, but below ground we have little knowledge of a complex world from which our crops – and our food, comes from. It is silent and unseen, but it is vibrant; active and diverse. It provides the nutrients for our plants. It can be used as an asset to improve the quality of our food; store and control the water from rainfall; be the backbone that delivers the health of all things in the countryside.

Within the complex world that we live, we choose how to manage our lives. As farmers, science has directed us to use chemicals to control pests and increase crop yields that can be delivered at lower cost. 40 deg C this summer was a signpost of climate change. It can be logged as a statistic, or reflected on as to its meaning.

Decisions one takes on a personal basis. For me, as a farmer – and grower of sea buckthorn, the 40 deg statistic I see as a threat that will dry up my soils, crops, grass for livestock, habitat for wildlife. I see it as a challenge and an opportunity for change.

My son, Ben, suggested I should go to an agricultural event this summer called Groundswell.  I had not been before and was not prepared for the outcome.

It was a dynamic show, full of enthusiastic people with innovation at the front of their thinking. Agriculture is often portrayed as full of aging farmers with few people joining the industry. Here at Groundswell was inspiration. Inspiration that was real, creative and active. A signpost for me that taking up the opportunity for change is worthwhile.

So what was the outcome?

Back in the summer, the drought had had a profound impact on the sea buckthorn. This year our Siberian plants produced berries – but long before they were ripe, thirsty wildlife striped the plants of the crop. Our Latvian plants, which have been reliable were stressed by lack of water. Their crop was small and later ripening varieties had almost no crop. Our german varieties ripened earlier than usual, but the berries were small.

I have not installed irrigation as up until now the plants have not needed it, and water is a precious resource that if overused can fill fruit with water and dilute nutritional quality. This season’s drought and high temperature indicates that if high temperatures are coming with climate change, then we have to change the ways we farm.

So as 2022 comes to an end, with the war in Ukraine still waging. With high energy and inflation impacting into everything we do – 2022 has to be the year to trigger change.

The decision therefore has been to change the way we farm. We are going organic. I do not say this lightly. It means a huge change needing new skills, new machinery, new buildings, new crops, new ways of manging our precious soil. It is daunting to be doing this at a time of economic instability, but that will ease. But I do not believe climate change will ease. Going organic is a long term project – 10, possibly 12 years to regaining the vibrancy of our soils. A long time, but it is no longer than it has taken to understand how to grow sea buckthorn.

And the sea buckthorn – what of it? What to do? We are lucky that the European sea buckthorn growers are, like those at groundswell, a dynamic group. There have been three on-line conferences providing the opportunity to share knowledge.

So like the farm – for sea buckthorn at Devereux farm – 2022 is a time for change. Time to decide which varieties have been successful and which not. Time to decide on how to lay out orchards that provide for a crop that can thrive in an extreme, changing climate.

So many old plants are going to be pulled up and replanted with new. With varieties that produce the fruit that we believe our customers like best.

Without customers we would not have a purpose. I find that our customers – like those attending groundswell, they know what they want. Many have a desire for the sea buckthorn they ate in other countries. Many understand this special fruit for its taste; its nutritional quality; its potential to inspire new culinary innovation.

So as 2022 comes to an end, I look forward to 2023 with a passion for change. Change that I hope will provide a future for our soil; our countryside; our crops and providing something special for our customers.

As you have now read this, the chances are you are one of our customers, if not you will have an interest in sea buckthorn. For both reasons may I thank you and wish you too, a happy Christmas and let us hope that 2023 brings stability and peace to a world that has many issues to solve.

Happy Christmas

One last thing – I am afraid that last orders for sea buckthorn berries has to be drawn to a close for 2022.

LAST ORDERS WILL BE ON DECEMBER 19th for delivery on DECEMBER 20th.

2023 I will be writing a short blog each week as our new farm emerges – new orders for sea buckthorn berries will start in January.

THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR SUPPORT IN 2022.

nutrition

Keep Your Immune System Strong this Winter

A December message from our nutritionist Lucy Williamson.

As we head into winter it’s important to choose foods which help to keep our immune system strong! What kind of food? Real, minimally processed and from healthy soils meaning it’s packed with nutrients for us.

Organic seabuckthorn berries really tick the box here; let me explain why –

Why Organic?

Crops grown organically have to rely on their own chemical defence mechanisms to fight off bugs. So these ‘phytochemicals’, which we know as ‘antioxidants’ are higher in organically grown plants, compared to crops which may have been sprayed with a fungicide for example. Brightly coloured berries are rich in health-giving antioxidants, none more so than bright orange organic, seabuckthorn berries with over 190 nutrients! Their antioxidants help us to maintain a healthy immune system as well as benefit from all their anti-ageing functions.

What about Gut Health?

Even pre-Covid, we humans have been a little carried away with sterilising our world. Many microbes (tiny, microscopic organisms like bacteria) are actually vital for our health rather than being ‘bad’. Our billions of gut microbes which we each have, are essential for a strong immune system as well as many other benefits to our long-term health. The same goes for healthy, organic soils in which our crops grow; microbes here unlock nutrients for the plants, just as our own gut microbes unlock nutrients in our food. They actually activate antioxidants for us, so eating organic, antioxidant-rich food nurtures our gut health too! The fibre in seabuckthorn also feeds our gut microbes – they get their energy from fermenting this otherwise indigestible fibre for us.

Is Seabuckthorn a good source of healthy vitamins?

Although it varies according to harvest times and conditions, Seabuckthorn berries contain about 10 times as much Vitamin C as an orange! Vitamin C is an antioxidant which is why it’s so important for our immunity. Seabuckthorn berries get their bright orange colour from carotenoids, a type of Vitamin A, which together with Vitamin E, also high in these orange berries of goodness, look after our immune systems too. We also know from research that these nutrients are easier for our body to absorb when in their natural food.

Real food

At the start I mentioned ‘real, minimally processed’ foods. At Devereaux Farm, seabuckthorn berries are frozen immediately on harvesting, locking the nutrients in. Compare this to a preserved fruit purée where nutrients are lost as well as additives put in! You can order seabuckthorn berries directly from the farm – fresh as the day they were picked without long food supply chains draining away nutrients in transit. Enjoy them as you would blueberries or try the dried version in this winter warming red cabbage recipe!