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Our Future Food

Growing sea buckthorn is but one challenge.Developing its market is as critical. Since the millenium we have seen food scares; production scandals; development of the global market and supply chain; and all these influence consumer thinking. Food market trends for 2016 still show familiar issues – convenience and indulgence. Convenience however has been identified by the Food Standards Agency as a concern. The demand for food on the go decreasing the social and cultural importance of sitting around a table with friends and family. Much of this food is processed and the FSA’s recent consumer survey indicates a thirst for knowing how food is processed and transparency in food production, impact on climate change, and global supply chains.

The FSA is looking for science and evidence to develop consumer confidence. This is commendable as long as it is realistic. All too often the press seizes on single issues and runs them regardless of credibility. The food industry/government agreement to reduce salt/fat and sugar has been around for a number of years. Each seen as having a health impact these are important. If we are to talk about food as a form of nutrition the impact of processing on natural ingredients has to be massive. The temptation to rely on fortification with artificial alternatives may deliver theoretical dietary need but it is how these fortified additives are assimilated within the body that matters.

As both EFSA and the FSA focus on improving diets on a population level on has to question the role of regulation. Why is it that the consumption of fruit and vegetables in the UK is such an issue? Is this due to this growing attraction of processed and on the go foods – or is it because people do not like to be told what is good for them.

At Devereux farm we are developing an ingredient. We are a small business. The new FSA Science , Evidence and information strategy 2015-2020 is laudable but for us it has to come with a level of reality. We have analysed sea buckthorn to use science and define evidence of nutritional status. As farmers we know the variables that impacts on every food crop worldwide. There might have been a time when we lived in an era of definable seasons and stable climate. The statements that since the millenium our climate has experienced so many record extreme events shows that there is little consistency to go on. This will impact on crop quality. Any analysis of a raw ingredient is a snapshot of a particular  sample. It takes many analyses to build a concept. A cost that a small company cannot bear. Taking the issue that each year the weather will create variation I have to wonder how one creates credible  evidence regarding a natural product. Most natural ingredients are destined for processing into food product. This will influence the quality of nutrients. So when the FSA looks for its science and evidence should this be based on ingredient or product? The concept is good. But if national diets are to improve and consumer choice is going to be based on evidence will natural foods have much bearing on the information provided?

All this is part of an on-going debate. The concept that food and health are interlinked comes from ancient sources and is as valid now as it was then. Creating quality food supply demands our policy makers and food industry work closely and realistically with clear and transparent goals. Hopefully science and evidence will drive informed debate and remove politics from the discussion.  Delivering quality and affordability is an issue but it must always be remembered that change requires investment and investment can only come from profit.

So as the UK views its choice on whether to stay in the EU or not another less discussed factor comes to the fore – food safety. As the food supply chain is now global, who will best regulate our food quality – national governments or the EU of 28 member states?

 

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2016 – A year of decisions and solutions.

Sea buckthorn is a new crop at Devereux farm, but it only takes up 5 hectares of the 300 hectares of all our farmland. Being winter it is time for maintenance and that currently that means hedge, wildlife and sea wall work. Some farms have removed their hedges, but back in the 1980s and 90s we replanted many of ours. These have been allowed to become both wide and tall as wildlife refuge and wind breaks across our windswept coastal site. Our linkage with the Hamford water National Nature reserve is interwoven throughout our landuse with almost half the farm into High level (HLS)Tier agri-environmental schemes. Freshwater wet grassland to encourage wader bird breeding; managed realignment with salt water to develop new salt marsh; secure sites with planting of hogs fennel that has attracted the very rare Fischers estuarine moth. All these embrace the value that we recognise in our local environment.

Embracing the environment when it comes to living with the sea as a neighbour  is not such a good decription. Respect for its power is more accurate. In 1953, the surge tide that killed 300 people in the UK and 1800 in Northern Europe, also flattened our farm sea walls. As climate change becomes more real we are looking to how this is impacting on the nature of our relationship with the sea. Neighbouring an embayment with sea walls to protect us means that we are more aware of the number of higher tides; increasing impact of more regular surge tides and the impact they have. Increasing cuts to government budgets has had an impact on the way the Environment agency can and does manage our sea walls. This all starting as far back as 2004, with the release of a government discussion paper on the ” Withdrawal of maintenance from uneconomic sea walls”.

Growing sea buckthorn has been a response to this issue. The potential to have a higher yielding, high value crop on a smaller area of land reflects the fact that the 1953 flood flooded 50% of our land.

No one can tell the future nor the impact of climate change. Inland flooding throughout the UK over the past 15 years tells us that something is happening. The sea is said to be more aggressive in winter, but our sea walls are higher than in 1953. The 2013 surge tide that breached 62 walls along the East Anglian coast left us dry but thoughtful of how to manage our future – not for now but for the next 50 years.

Meeting unknown challenges is about risk management and trying to maintain stability. The sea buckthorn has annually presented a new issue – disease, pest, birds. Each are met with a solution. Deciding how to manage our relationship with the sea is not an annual issue – it is one of knowledge of what it can do; the potential outcomes and how best to assess the real risk.

It is a similar situation that the UK faces with the forthcoming referendum on whether to stay in the European Union. I defy anyone to know with accuracy how it will be if the UK left the Union and to define tangible real benefits in a world that has become unstable politically and economically. In such times making decisions should be risk averse – seeking to maintain stability and build on strength.

Over this year we will be making decisions as to how to improve our sea defence to make it secure for the next 50 years. We will also have to be taking a decision over Europe. As for the sea buckthorn – the Siberian berries have become a favourite of local wildlife. This is one problem that has an easy solution – netting. Having sourced the structure, except for the fact that erecting a netting structure over thousands of plants is daunting – at least one of our issues has a simple solution.

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Philosophy and strategy

I normally write these blogs and then give them a title, but today is different. It started with a telephone call from Mongolia. The call was followed by an email from the caller who mentioned the two words in this blog’s title. It has made me consider what drives the sea buckthorn project at Devereux farm.

Growing any crop is a means of earning a living, but the result is tempered by the environment. Technology and management experience create a result, but the result of a year’s work is altered by global markets; speculation; global and local weather; soil; plant varieties; pests, diseases  and the ability to control them. Variables which one has a level of control and a creative process that drives pride in achievement.

The objective of growing sea buckthorn at Devereux farm is to develop a crop which can be processed on farm to attract added value. Adding value raises us above the global commodity price market of traditional farming.

Added value however means creating a product not just for a market, but for a consumer.

The UK consumer is affluent and sophisticated in desire for product. The market is competitive with a huge level of choice. Taste is king, followed by value – but packaging, branding, labelling, convenience, service, trust,  all drive consumers to buy. All combine into one word – quality.

There are many ways to define quality – but I believe it is how well the product delivers the consumer’s understanding of the product. It is a main driver for purchase. Good reliable quality also drives repeat purchase. So product quality has to be consistent to deliver what the consumer wants.

Quality can be defined by the benefit it can bring to a consumer. Sea buckthorn has been defined for 2000 years for its potential to provide health benefit to humans and animals. Health claim regulation prevents marketing a product with a claim unless it can be scientifically substantiated.  As a farmer I know that every year crop quality varies because of variable weather and climate.  Any cooking or manufacturing process again alters nutrient quality. The question is does the product perform in spite of the variation?

Having analysed sea buckthorn over the past few years, my experience is that individual nutrient levels vary. Vitamin levels rise and fall. But it is not these individual nutrients that matter. It is the cocktail of nutrients and their synergy together that delivers health benefit quality.  The National Health Service advises that a balanced diet will deliver all the essentials the body needs. This is absolutely true, but in an age of lifestyles on the move, changing eating habits, and foods of variable nutritional quality – supplementation is still hugely popular.

Reading market trends for 2016 I think of the issues to do with quality, the consumer and how these relate to sea buckthorn. Number one: the pressure on reducing dietry sugar content is also seeing the trend for sour taste to be big in 2016.  The natural sourness derived from sea buckthorn vitamins and amino acids packs a natural punch in nutrients. As an ingredient the provision of natural nutrient over fortified is also popular. Provenance delivering quality of product ( freshness, consistency of taste, etc) linked with sustainability as a responsible supplier is gaining importance. This something that small brands with good identity can capitalise upon.  So all that together makes me feel that 2016 is the year for this European superfruit to make a splash in the market.

The market is looking good for sea buckthorn but the key issue for Devereux farm is delivering added value. The consumer wants consistent quality. By growing the crop one learns how to define quality. Managing plants,  choosing varieties, pest control;  soil management – all influence taste and appearance. Storage and processing technique impact on nutrient quality. Gaining knowledge by experience takes time. Appreciation of quality and how to deliver it to market becomes key when thinking about sourcing sea buckthorn globally. Sea buckthorn is a plant of many sub-species and environments. All can deliver specific quality to match specific requirement but capturing and delivering that quality is what will inspire the market and create loyal custom.

So my philosophy is that this is a long game – similar to farming, but the strategy has to be to define deliverable quality to ensure that the long games returns the added value that the farm is looking for.

 

 

 

 

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2016 – trends, the EU and stirrings in the creative kitchen.

Finally our winter has arrived with three nights of frosts and the promise of snow to come. In reality the days are still warm and the impact on our sea buckthorn will be insignificant. The weather does have a practical impact though. December was a very wet month, with the ground saturated to capacity. In a perverse way this has become an advantage. Hand weeding of large broad leaved weeds becomes a matter of a swift tug and the plant – sometimes with a root of 250mm, can be pulled out without much effort. It has allowed rows to be de weeded at a rate of 100m a day.  I should not complain when this bonus gradually retreats – waterlogged ground is not good for sea buckthorn.

On a wider horizon 2016 now seems to be a pivotal political year as the EU referendum may be upon us this year. I suspect that most of the British public is still unaware of most of the issues. I also fear that the issues will be communicated from both politicians and the media in with a bias that is based on concept not fact. Debate at the Oxford Farming conference traded on four subjects – Common Agricultural Policy; access to consumers; influence on regulation; and the balance of how much the UK pays to what it receives from the EU. This last factor trades a CAP payment of £2.9billion to the UK, in return for a payment of £9.8 billion. A stark statement – but one based on agricultural agenda – does with mean that all the other payment is without any benefit? Are there other industries gaining grants and funding? What of Horizon 2020?

In my experience of talking to colleagues there are three industries in the UK – agriculture, waste and construction where regulation is not just talked about in EU terms, but as to how it is gold plated in the UK. Efficient and effective regulation should be, but our politicians are also capable of creating laws. Employment is becoming more expensive. The  minimum wage has moved to the living wage with further leap to come within the next five years. Add the drive for pension contributions to this and this becomes a barrier to employment driven not by the EU but by Westminster. The minimum wage was too low, but for business to grow it needs stability and be treated as a partner not a cash cow.

Access to consumers in the EU, as well as the ability to source product for the UK is not hindered by tarriffs and duties. If the UK stands alone, will EU states still welcome our product without barriers? How long will it take to negotiate new trade agreements? Will the UK be negotiating from a position of strength or will it seek alliance with other European non EU members to form a new European trade group? The UK is an exporting nation and the government wants to promote export, but at a time of political, economic and security instability is this really the time to be breaking up relationships? Maybe there are those in Westminster and big buisness who can see a bigger picture with clarity. If so, they should start communicating not only their vision, but the facts that support it, so that Uk citizens can make valued judgements. If the UK can be a stronger by leaving the EU the facts must be like a good marketing message – clear, differentiated and authoritative.

Enough of big politics – this is a time of year for market commentators to be talking about trends for the year ahead.   It seems that consumer trust is an underlying message. Smaller brands pushing natural foods; interest back in organics and gluten free; vegetables over animal proteins; a fear of sugars pushing the rise of sour flavours – trend setters all of which would be good for sea buckthorn.   The concept that we all need to indulge every once in a while is nothing new – but maybe there is a touch of guilt in the system when the concept looks for adding a “better for you” ingredient. Taste of new product, new experience similarly is a natural demand. New taste is not likely to be a revolution overnight, but the fact that a new experience is described as niche does not mean that it is insignificant. All of these comments I take as positive for our ingredient – sea buckthorn.

It has a unique taste which is electric when mixed with the right companion ingredients. Regulations may not allow us to say so, but its nutritional package can – and does provide a mix of benefits. Most sea buckthorn across Europe is grown organically, produced by mainly small businesses crafting there products and ingredient with passion.

Passion is one thing that is necessary for success. Genuine passion is something that money cannot buy. Here at Devereux farm – as with the many sea buckthorn growers across the EU,   the passion comes from pulling together natural talents to be creative. Farming may be becoming a terrain of big organisations – it is still also driven by family farms, with each individual inputting their passion to support the business.

With the Devereux farm 2016 sea buckthorn harvest looking like being the first to bring our Siberian varieties to market, Emma has been in the kitchen devising new recipies. Innovation has sometimes to be brave. Not everything works, but each experience brings new angles to approach. The brief to her was to look for diversity of use. Savoury and sweet; the ability to use sea buckthorn in all meal courses; looking for the best companion flavours. Our approach will not be a rush for new product but this will come. 2016 we will be going into the marketplace with product – but it has to be backed with an understanding of how best to use sea buckthorn. There are many great chefs out there who have creative skills far greater than ours – but we cannot expect sea buckthorn to sell itself. It is a great taste – but as with all greatness it needs moulding to be successful.

 

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The shape of farming to come

One of my new year resolutions was to read all trade magazines as soon as they come into the office. The information that goes into these papers may not all be relevant but as we enter a new year there are plans to make, so all information needs assessing.

During 2015 Matt and I went to Germany to see the Kranneman sea buckthorn harvester in action. The state of the art as we saw it. The operation is about speed of harvesting, quality of production and reducing costs. Returning home the visit inspired how to make our operation efficient at our scale.

Machinery is not the only issue. The farm’s clay soil makes it harder for plants to grow and develop, but it is what we have to work with. 2015 was the UN International year of soils. As our government department DEFRA quotes an annual loss of 2.2 million tons of topsoil each year as a result of wind and rainfall, this is becoming a crucial issue. I see that the top mega producers of salad vegetables tend not to own their land but seek out the best soils and rent land that suits the best requirement of the crop.

Others have opted to move away from soil all together. One particular company produces over 220m tomatoes, together with millions of peppers and cucumbers using hydroponics in controlled environments. These systems even control light so as to maintain supply through the year. Gone is the concept of seasonality, but with it there can be a penalty of lack of taste and texture.

Entrepeneurs in London are developing smaller scale operations in containers using artificial light, delivering freshness that is demanded by restaurants and consumers. Salad crops and herbs fit these projects well. Risks of damage by weather, pests and disease are all able to be controlled so much easier. Less risk equals less loss and better profit.

Capital costs are clearly an issue on the mega operations, but the container based farmer can set up without huge investment. These sort of changes are not new. I came across an article from the Country Life magazine dated June 28 1962 this week. Titles the same as this blog it states – farming has become “a game for the young man who is technically expert and has the temperament to take calculated risks”.

Innovation has driven the UK top and soft fruit industry. The appearance of blueberries throughout the year on supermarket shelves has been because production methods have become so efficient.

Fresh strawberries, raspberries and blueberries now find a regular place in the UK consumer shopping basket. Fruit is recognised as a healthy part of the diet. But these are mass commodity products. Sea buckthorn is niche. Its sharp taste is as a result of its ability to provide not only contribute to a healthy diet, but to also proactively maintain good health.

Placing sea buckthorn on the consumer’s larder shelf needs to address a number of issues. Consumer knowledge; consumer confidence and affordability. Taste might be an issue, but the taste is no different to citrus and without its sharpness it would not deliver its benefit.

Affordability though is an issue as production costs have to reflect that establishing consumer knowledge and confidence is a high cost. Marketing is all important.

As we watched the German production system we reflected on the cost. But as with the container farmers in London, there are always alternative ways to  come to the same end point.  Maybe growing sea buckthorn in an artificial environment is possible. Maybe we challenge ourselves too much with looking to ever increasing scale. Maybe we are better to contract into co-operatives of close to market, small operations where scale is balanced on the availability of time to grow and harvest efficiently. Mobile processing units are available for all sorts of operations. This model sounds more suited to an African small holder community, but the UK has become an urban society and values have changed significantly.

As I look at my sea buckthorn plants changing their behaviour in adapting to our climate, change is not something one can fight. It has to be accepted, understood and molded into a shape that suits a future not as we want it, but as it is.

 

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Its Krazy Klaudia wishing us a happy new year.

This will be my shortest blog yet, but worth noting anyway.

The mildness of the winter is already creating records. The infamous Siberian variety Klaudia has nailed it again. Most of the Siberian varieties start to show signs of life in late February and March. Klaudia always has insisted that our winter is as close to a Siberian spring as  it thinks credible. Past years this has been January 11th to 15th. 2016 Klaudia wanted to wish us a happy new year and started on January 1st with 1cm leaf appearing on all the plants by today. I would not put this down to climate change, but I have my doubts as to whether this early awakening from dormancy will have a positive impact on berry production.

Mild climate is not the only change that these siberian varieties have to cope with. Our clay soil is a test for sea buckthorn resiliance and the reason for using compost to improve the soil structure to allow for ease of root penetration and nutrient absorption. Our coastal site is exposed. As winter rainfall softens the ground, the clay soil lacks the ability to support plants as they are buffeted by strong winds. Each year the stake supports for the plants have grown in size. This is an annual issue that needs solving.

One final comment – I have said in the past that I have been taking sea buckthorn capsules – two a day, since September 2009. Mathew has been drinking puree on the same basis over the past three years. In fact he took it as his only supplement for his training for the Iron Man challenge he raced in back in September.

This christmas there have been some shocking colds around and as a family four of us have had it. But by doubling up the capsules to four a day for two days, then dropping back to three for another three days – this aggressive infection gave in to the sea buckthorn.

So happy and healthy its into a new year.

May i wish you a very happy and successful 2016.

 

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The focus for the coming year – with no mention of sea buckthorn.

The New Year is approaching and with it thoughts about the coming year. One of the challenges that I set over the Christmas break is to rummage through the piles of trade magazines that have come throughout the previous year. The number of these journals is staggering and I have to admit that some remain in their plastic wrapping. So this is an opportunity to review what I have missed and what might help in planning the future.

The common theme through 2015 has been doom and gloom for agriculture. Economic doldrums are not uncommon with farming but there has been a perfect storm of global issues – low commodity prices, uncertain weather, unstable currency to which are added withdrawal of chemicals, increasing bureaucratic interference and the many issues within the EU.

I would then add climate change to the pot. Of any this is becoming a risk factor that is truly focusing the mind. Degradation of soils; new pests; flooding; extreme weather events – soil management is a key aspect within the EU common agricultural policy reforms. Low returns for commodity crops have to be balanced with lowering costs, both fixed and variable. Technology is seen as a holy grail. Ever larger machinery capable of achieving greater work rates works on some soils, but not on all. Drones to film the worst spots for weeds across a field provide graphic evidence – but knowledge that possibly the farmer already knew from years of working the land. Deep ploughing is an expensive operation being replaced by minimum tillage and no tillage options. Given good soil and good weather these new systems work – but not all soils are the same, and the weather is certainly not a constant. So it is no wonder that these are becoming uncertain times if you are a farmer.

For Christmas I was given a little book written in the Ist century AD by a Roman – Columella. One of a series on farming it is still relevant today. His opening passage on soil reflects that “soil, wearied and exhausted by age-long wasting away and by cultivation over a long period of time, has become barren”. The need to feed hungry populations was as important then as it is now. Columella goes on to advocate the use of the deep plough pulled by larger more expensive cattle – contrary to other writers of the time advising small plough shears with smaller oxen. Even the Romans were reviewing their technology with reference to expense over productivity. Reviewing it against even more ancient Grecian muses that ” to die of hunger is the bitterest of fates”.

But is this historical reference relevant? It is because the one context which we have to solve is long term sustainability. Sustainability was recognised 2000 years ago as being essential to maintaining agricultural productivity. In the 21st century sustainability means limiting pollution and  gaseous emissions driving climate change. Sustainability to reduce our demand on resources.   I was shocked to read in the October 2015 edition of the Energy in Building and Industry magazine that the UK electricity system wastes £9.5 billion of energy before it reaches homes and businesses. Sustainability also then means responsibility. It makes short term economic sense because it can reduce costs – but it makes long term essential necessity because without it the future looks bleak.

Enough doom and gloom – its New year and a time to move forward. But if this is a time for optimism it needs to be tempered with reassessing what I am doing and designing my plans for the future with sustainability as a king pin in decision making. Not all plans are possible, but as long as there is progress and the progress has sustainability built into its thinking, then is should be  good progress.

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Happy Christmas anda healthy New year

Christmas has finally arrived. A time of tradition with carols in our local All Saints Church rounding off a day of last minute preparations. It is both a time for excitment and for reflection. Reflection on a year passing and the year to come.

The year passing has as always had highlights that are memorable – such as the first UK Sea buckthorn Association meeting back in February. It has also had some low points – with the realisation that the Siberian varieties are very attractive to our local wildlife.

Visiting our colleagues in germany at harvest time to see the Kranneman sea buckthorn harvester galloping its way through lines of shrubs – that was spectacular. Equally though was the feeling that our own version of cut and freeze harvesting was a success.

A New Year coming is always full of optimism. This year the birds will not be feasting on the sweet Russian berries because we have found a netting system to enclose the plantation.  This comes at a time when these plants will finally be producing a harvest as opposed to just a few token berries.

Given a store full of UK grown berries this winter will focus on marketing and processing the fruit. Some will go into the London market fresh. Processing will need a HACCP accredited processing system and NPD kitchen. The latter being the task for the first two months of next year. Some have questioned whether full accreditation is necessary – but still the concept of developing a set of definable standards is a real goal. Standards bring customer confidence. They also bring attention to detail which will be a learning curve but one that will reap rewards in the future.

There are also a stock of new plants to go into the orchard. These have been over yeared in pots. Bringing the plants on from cuttings in pots will allow for more certain success in my clay soil. With a full compost and compost tea program planned for this year, these new plants should soon establish and become part of a rolling expansion of yield capacity.

Throughout 2016 we have been working with Cornish SeaBerry – who have planted a sea buckthorn orchard and also look to expand in the New year. Partnership working is a crucial tool in establishing new markets. Seth from Cornish Sea berry has travelled the world this year and will have his own take on how to establish his business – but working together will bring mutual benefit to both of us.

The time has come for Santa to start the day. I hope he brings all that you hope for and with it a happy, healthy and peaceful new year.