I should consider this last week to have been a massive milestone – finally taking the plunge and signing up with the Soil Association to make the sea buckthorn at Devereux farm organic. In effect, it is already being grown organically – certification provides the verification that this is true.
Truth is becoming an issue as the EU referendum becomes closer. One side countering the other with statements that offer us the voter with little in the way of fact. This type of spat also broke out in the nutrition advice world as the National Obesity forum was accused by National health England of being irresponsible in the publication of its latest report. The forum saying that we should stop counting calories as these do not provide a simple resolution to the obesity crisis. National health England reads their advice as being irresponsible as it indicates that high fat diets may not necessarily be the evil they are portrayed as whilst starchy and sugary replacements can offer dangers in other areas.
As ever, the consumer stands back and looks and listens to experts whose publicly displayed disagreements result in further confusion. The results can be seen in a Mintel market report just issued that shows consumers are now turning away from healthy processed food that market themselves as “low in”, “light” or “diet” products. There is a call for clearer nutritional information and ingredient transparency – but when experts do not dispense clarity how can anyone make a rational decision. The unfortunate consequence is a loss of trust and respect. Mintel go on to suggest that in food terms consumers are looking for product that has nothing to hide – including that clarity on where it comes from and how it is made.
So it is also interesting that in a week when the EU is under fire and nutritional rationality is in a mess, that the EU committee on Internal Market and Consumer Protection was debating the problems of unfair practices in the food supply chain. This follows all those reports that big supermarkets offer farmers poor buying deals. Practices that result in fresh vegetables being ploughed back into fields or sold for very little for livestock feed because they are not a precise shape. Food is perishable and farmers and growers have a small window of opportunity to sell their goods before they are out of sell by date. With 90% of the EU industry represented by small and medium sized business there is a problem within a highly competitive food supply chain when buying power is used irresponsibly.
This discussion has been on-going but finally the report from this committee indicates that there is a serious problem. It prompts the EU commission to look to competition law to ensure that producers should be fairly paid for their goods. In the end it is the consumer who will benefit from this. As diary farmers, fruit and vegetable producers go out of business because the market pays for milk and fresh produce at cost price or even below then choice falls and production ever moves into the hands of big business. The side issues – if they can be seen as such are a loss of product quality and diversity, much of which is based on old tradition and cultural background. This loss also adds power to the buyers who become stronger and gradually out compete smaller retailers who themselves go out of business. In the past the EU commission has focused on consumer rights, but this new committee report recognises that unless there is an even playing field for the whole supply chain then in the end those consumer rights to choice and quality are undermined.
I should now return to sea buckthorn. The siberian plants at Devereux farm have been susceptible to pest and disease. They are after all an exotic plant living in a new environment with a lot of adjustments to make for different soil and climate. The reason for only now signing up as organic is a reflection of the feeling that the plants are responding to how they are looked after and the risk of disease is lessening. having started in 2009 this has been a long haul, but this process has some benefits. This last week, while giving the plants their next feed of compost tea and quietly going about my business I have grown to appreciate the environment I work in. Early in the morning I have met up with a massive hare. I should not be so complacent as it could be the cause of the younger plants being chewn and broken back in the spring. But as such a magneficent animal – I can forgive this and just appreciate the moment of meeting with both of us eyeing each other without fear or suspicion, before both returning to the job in hand. That evening our resident barn owl cruised over my head. The fact this year the area between the rows of sea buckthorn has been left uncut possibly allows for better hunting. Skylarks add to aerial displays with their characteristic tune filling an otherwise dull and cold sky with something to make me smile. None of this is part of the plan – it is just a consequence of finding a way to make the sea buckthorn grow. But it does make for a great place to work.
As we move into June the focus is always on the harvest. Between now and then the plants with the most berries on need to be protected against the rooks and jackdaws that so expertly came and helped themselves to last year’s harvest. Actually having a crop also means developing the best way to harvest. These Siberian berries should be larger and supposedly sweet. So, after so much effort these are not just berries but like semi-precious jewels.The plants are thornless so hand picking is possible. As the plants are still young, cutting off branches to freeze in order to remove the berries needs careful thought. With between 1-2000 plants coming into harvestable fruit this is a learning process. Then of course comes selling. 2016 will be a milestone year.